Bobstay rigging

[Ru88ell]

I would have to change something to make the forestay shorter by at least the length of the snapshackle.

On my SA boat I can remove the open body turnbuckle and the Sta-lok, reduce the wire and refit. I may need a new cone though.

http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/products/yacht-ropes---rigging/wire-rigging/sta-lok-diy-terminals

No need to replace the whole forestay, just get the right bits to accommodate a snap shackle.

[Dennis]

Hello Russell

Thanks for the link to the Jimmy Green website.

My bottlescrew thread is swaged to the forestay wire. I see I would have to:

either, cut the existing bottlescrew (upper threaded part) off and replace it with a Sta-Lok version (thread will have to be identical to fit bottlescrew body)

or, Cut off the swaged on fork (the bit which connects to the hounds mast band) and replace with a Sta-Lok fork.

The second option is probably easier. I have no experience with Sta-Lok fittings, are they as secure as a properly swaged on version?

Food for thought!

Thanks again.

[Ru88ell]

Dennis
I've ordered one of these - http://www.s3i.co.uk/5mm-3-8%22-Fork-Stud.html to screw into the bottom of the turnbuckle, to which I should be able to fit a snap shackle. I've also noticed today that Greavsie (first owner) fitted a one and a half inch toggle between the forestay hounds and forestay - something to do with accommodating his Plastimo furler. I can remove this to get the length nearer to what I need.

[erbster]

I don't disconnect anything but the sails from the bowsprit. I asked my original question, because I didn't like the look of the twine on the metal fittings. The "bobstay" wires are clearly different lengths on different boats- I was looking at a new one at the boat show on Saturday.

I also learned this weekend that what takes me too long when rigging the boat is the foresails- was launching in 45 mins without rigging them. I now leave the sheets on the boat and attach to the clew with a snap shackle. Snap shackles on the heads too. I always seem to get furlers wrong though and end up with not enough on the drum to wrap a couple of turns around the furled sail. Haven't got the shrouds/forestay right yet either, as the forestay tensioner is at maximum but is slack when I put halyard tension on the staysail- I think I must need to take in the shrouds more before tightening the forestay.

[Ru88ell]

When you find a solution please let us know about it.

I've done it and there's a picture in my album.

[David Hudson]

Multi-purchase wire blocks and 6mm dyneema rope will provide a bombproof Bobstay. A water stay? A clamp on a catheter.

Genoa halyard? more dyneema.

Babystay? Hell's teeth we are talking a gaff rigged yacht, not a skinny twin spreader configuration.

Bowsprit shrouds are required to minimise leeward sag of the Genoa tack. Dyneema shrouds made fast with clam cleats should ensure things stay where they are meant to be. The clam cleats allow quick release for raising the bowsprit.

Rig tension on a Cutter is easy, (given that you have the correct mast rake). The standard fitted clutches by Spinlock will only hold a maximum load on 6mm Dyneema. Unless you are about to fit twin trapeze, forget hydraulics.

Tokoloshe's needs were simple but often over engineeed but it all works.

David
From Grannys Yacht

[Dennis]

For anyone interested, I have posted some photos (Mary Ann Modifications) of the bowsprit shoud tensioning system I have adopted (for this year).
This allows me to tension the shrouds when the bowsprit is in the lowered or raised position. This makes for a very stable (and quick) mast raising arrangement.