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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 8:11 pm
by Paul Turner
Thanks Dennis

That's useful to know. If I move the tiller pin back an inch or two it will solve the problem. Because this will reduce the length of the 'lever' it may make the tiller pilot work a bit harder but as I've gone for the bigger model it shouldn't be a problem.

Tiller Pilot

PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 11:41 pm
by Paul Turner
Hi Dennis

Yes you're cleats are further aft than mine.

I could move the tiller pilot back a couple of inches to solve the problem. Do you think that will create any problems for the pilot with increased loads (because of shorter lever). The instructions are very specific about the 18 inch measurement. I'm sure there must be some tolerance but not sure how much.

The alternative would be to move the cleat forward by two inches.

PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:31 am
by Dennis
I do not think you will have a problem.

I assume you have bought a ST2000 unit. If that is the case the mechanical thrust is provided by a threaded rod and recirculating ball unit, which is much more efficient than the threaded rod and simple nut used on the ST1000 which I use. Indeed, as far as I understand that is the only difference between the two models. You are so much within the capacity of the unit with your boat. the loads which are going to be generated will be no problem to the tiller pilot. After all the ST2000 is recommended for boats up to 4,500 Kg displacement and can generate a thrust of 77 Kg.

You could always adopt the system used (I think) by Simon Head, with a bracket mounted on the cockpit side. The advantage is that the tiller pilot is out of the way of main sheet or any mooring ropes on the cleat.

PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 3:33 pm
by Paul Turner
I had thought of that option as well. I'd have to exchange the 6" extension I've already bought for a shorter one but that's OK and it may be the best option.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 7:36 pm
by Simon Head
Have a look at the mods section of http://www.inspiration19.com. I would investigate lining the engine cowl with lead foil to reduce interference to the flux gate compass of the tiller pilot. Nice and simple. This is available in very thin sheets and is relatively cheap. It is available with self adhesive backing

PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 12:28 am
by Paul Turner
Thanks Simon. I plan to attach a wooden block to the cockpit side to achieve same effect.

The lead lining sounds an interesting idea and much simpler than installing a remote compass for the tiller pilot.

PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 11:05 am
by Simon Head
It should be fine. Its protected from the outside elements. Just do not end up getting into a survival situation using your engine cowel as a dish and eating from it!

On ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Lead-Sheet-Foil-Self-adhesive-11x11cmx1mm-Lead-Model-Crafts-LWPH-/291077783963?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EHamp;hash=item43c596819b

This is 1mm thick you may be able to get it a lot thinner.

I must admit I have not had this problem with my installation but may vary from engine to engine. I have now integrated it to the Garmin chart plotter, as per my site.

Kind Regards

Simon Head
http://www.inspiration19.com

Re:

PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 8:45 am
by erbster
Simon Head wrote:... I would investigate lining the engine cowl with lead foil to reduce interference to the flux gate compass of the tiller pilot. Nice and simple....


Sadly, this will not work, Simon. There is no material which "blocks" magnetic fields, though some metals (not lead) can divert the field lines but there seems no practical way of preventing the spinning magnet in the outbox from confusing the tiller pilot. It seems the Honda engine that myself and several other cc owners have is especially bad for this.

Re:

PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 8:56 am
by erbster
Dennis wrote:I have bought a Raymarine ST40 electronic compass to fit to Mary Ann.

This will allow the Raymarine St1000+ tiller pilot to utilise the external fluxgate compass thus eliminating the magnetic interference from the engine.


Hi Dennis,

I trust you had a good journey back from Levington. The St40 is a display unit; is this needed to interface between the external compass, or is it simply to provide a display? I was looking at the st1000 manual and it appears that a (cheaper) nmea compass (eg NASA do one) can be connected, rather than the raymarine proprietary one?

Re: Tiller Pilots

PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 1:06 pm
by Dennis
Hello Charles

Thanks I did have a good journey back from Levington. I think I chose a good day (Cup Final Day), there was very little traffic and no hold-ups at all, did the 320 miles in just over 6 hours including a lunch stop. Still knackered at the end of it though.

Re the ST40. You are correct the ST1000+ does support the NMEA protocol. However the NASA unit outputs NMEA 0183 sentence HDG. Unfortunately the ST1000+ does not accept that particular data (Heading). It seems that Raymarine have deliberately done this to force you to use "Seatalk" which is Raymarine's own proprietary system. It is possible to get "cheap" external fluxgate compasses but I do not think they can be (easily) interfaced with the St1000+.
The ST40 display unit acts as the interface and converts the signals from the (Raymarine) external fluxgate into "Seatalk" format which the St1000+ understands.

I chose the ST40 because it was the cheapest option. The display and compass came as a package. I could not find a lower cost alternative at the time.

According the the handbook, using an external compass should automatically disable the internal one fitted to the tiller pilot. It did not in my case, I had to physically unplug the ribbon cable from the circuit board. It worked fine then. Does not inspire confidence in the product though. Another issue I found was that my ST1000+ connecting plug was wired differently to the information given in the handbook, the Seatalk wire was connected to a different pin, easily corrected once I had diagnosed the problem. Annoying though. :mad:

Hope this helps.