Cape Cutter 19 Association Forum

Just been continuing the winter refit and decided to varnish the bowsprit. I noticed the steel screws holding the rear bracket were loose. Having removed the bracket you can see why. The whole of the back end of the bowsprit is rotten. I have only had the boat 9 months so this rot has been there a while.

Previous repairs have obviously failed so the boat was sold with no mention. Caveat Emptor!

Here's some pictures of the rot but it would be worthwhile checking yours to see if there are any nascent problems. If you are buying a CC second hand then this is something to check. Anyone know how much a new one will cost or where I could get one made?

Hi Dave,
Better to find it now , but still not good.
I think the problem is that the loose fitting stainless cradle that the bowsprit sits in is only held in position with a couple of screws that inevitably shake loose and open up a way in for water. Rot follows if not dried out and resealed occasionally.
My view is that the bowsprit it not heavily loaded , all the tension is carried by the stays and halliard , leaving just a bit of compression on the bowsprit .
I would be inclined to take it to your local friendly joiner and ask him to check that the rot is confined to a few inches near the end , and if that is the case , fit a new end section.
There will be other views!!
Ian

Thanks Ian,
I was more than happy to discover the rot whilst ashore! I'm going to take the bowsprit to one of the local shipwrights and I'm sure he will have a cunning plan.
I agree with your assessment of the problem. When I get the repair/new one I'll make sure the holes are either back filled with epoxy and re-drilled or cover the screw threads with sealant. Regular checking is definitely on the maintenance list for the future.
Dave

ianrmaciver wrote:Hi Dave,
Better to find it now , but still not good.
I think the problem is that the loose fitting stainless cradle that the bowsprit sits in is only held in position with a couple of screws that inevitably shake loose and open up a way in for water. Rot follows if not dried out and resealed occasionally.
My view is that the bowsprit it not heavily loaded , all the tension is carried by the stays and halliard , leaving just a bit of compression on the bowsprit .

Hello Dave and Ian

The load on the bowsprit should be only axial compression ie. the sum of the horizontal components of the forces produced by the bobstay, bowsprit shrouds and the yankee/genoa halliard. This could be substantial if everything is tight, but as I have already said it is (mainly) an axial load and would not cause a problem if you were to do a scarf joint repair.

If you use the bowsprit to help raise the mast (as I do) it does put a substantial (axial) load on the bowsprit which is of course carried by the stainless steel fitting. This causes the fitting to want to pivot on the two screws holding it in place. I have cured this by using a further two screws on the [color="Red"]underside[/color] of the bowsprit fitting at the forward end. This makes the whole assembly very tight and there is no movement of the SS fitting. I strip down the bowsprit every winter to inspect it, revarnish as necessary and reseal all the screw holes during re-assembly.

It it were my bowsprit, it would be a toss of a coin between repair or replace. I would probably opt to make a new bowsprit myself, mainly because I get a lot of pleasure from that sort of thing.

Hello Dennis

Putting in the extra screws is an excellent idea. The screws I took out were quite short, what length would you recommend? I would love to think I had the skill to make another bowsprit but I'd put my woodworking skills under the "Wood Butcher" category.

Dave

Killick Greenie wrote:Hello Dennis

Putting in the extra screws is an excellent idea. The screws I took out were quite short, what length would you recommend?
Dave

Hello Dave

My original screws (the port and starboard ones) are long enough to almost touch in the middle, they are the HM originals.

The addition screws I added (underneath at the forward end) are 6mm dia. stainless steel coach screws with hexagonal heads (spanner required). They are deliberately substantial.

Dennis wrote:Hello Dave

My original screws (the port and starboard ones) are long enough to almost touch in the middle, they are the HM originals.

The addition screws I added (underneath at the forward end) are 6mm dia. stainless steel coach screws with hexagonal heads (spanner required). They are deliberately substantial.

Excellent, thank you Dennis. I shall be looking for suitable candidates to order this evening.

Dave

Well, I'm in the same boat (literally and metaphorically).
I came into a pontoon berth in windy conditions and gave the 'sprit a little knock. I noticed that it had broken the sikaflex seal on the joint, so decided to take it off and varnish.

Now I see that there is a little rot (not as much as above). I have two pairs of screws, each of which almost meet in the middle. I wonder why a bolt is not used instead?

I also wonder how much a new bowsprit is, compared to the cost (and hassle) of finding a local joiner who could repair the 'sprit. Mine has been repaired before, I can see.

Mine is now up and running. The boat yard (Kings at Pin Mill) scarphed a piece in and also modified the stainless steel fitting with two strengthening pieces which help stabile the bowsprit when using it to assist raising the mast. I'll post pictures if anyone is interested.

I used the bowsprit to drop the mast and as Dennis suggests the two standard screws and a bit of sikaflex is not up to the job. I have taken the fitting off and will pop to 'stainless Steve' to get two more holes added and countersunk at the forward end of the fitting. Dennis did you really mean 6 mm hex screws, that's pretty thick. How long are they?
Thanks