Cape Cutter 19 Association Forum

I can't afford a teak grating, but would like to make something to lie in the bottom of the cockpit to allow a little bit of water slosh. I have the technology to make something like Bert has on hull 4 'Zimp'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WR8mcjl_yTU

My question is, what wood would you use in that position?

Russell

ps Check out Zephyr's blog for progress reports.

Hello Russell

You could use any reasonably durable timber.

I would suggest douglas fir/columbian pine, i.e the same timber as your mast and spars.

All it will require is a pressure wash at the end of the season followed by a dry out and a good dose of preservative. It would last for years.

Cheers

Dennis

CC19 #100 Mary Ann

Ru88ell wrote:I can't afford a teak grating, but would like to make something to lie in the bottom of the cockpit to allow a little bit of water slosh. I have the technology to make something like Bert has on hull 4 'Zimp'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WR8mcjl_yTU

My question is, what wood would you use in that position?

Russell

ps Check out Zephyr's blog for progress reports.

Russel,

On the youtube movie I had two wooden garden decking tiles on some small "rubber" tiles. I bought everything in a garden shop. Later I bought a third tile to use for extending the size of the tiles so they fit better. I have no idea about the type of wood but I don't care because the tiles were 5 euro each. If I have to buy new tiles ever few years for 15 euro, that will no be the reason for going bankrupted:)
I bought the material at the "Gamma" DIY shop in the Netherlands, something like B&Q or Wickes in the UK?

Bert

Hi Russell,

as attachments I send you a photo and the design drawing of the grating we made for CC52 "Herr Nillsson". It was made of Iroko or Meranti (I don't remember which) commonly used for terrace decking.

We soaked the wood thoroughly in Deks-Olje before assembly (even though that might not even have been necessary) and a put it together just using SPAX self-cutting wood screws (A2/A4 of course - I think that is 316 or the like in English). The measurements fit our SA-hull perfectly.

The grating has now been going for 4 seasons without any further care or maintenance. It looks weathered but fine.

The main thing is that the grating gives us just that extra inch or two for dry feet.

Thanks for the feedback, pics and plans. For no more than 40 days on the water per year I might just use some tanalised garden decking.

Update: My father is going to make me a grating out of iroko - based on the SeaSickWhale plans. We might use slightly wider slats and round off the edges a bit.

I'll put some pics up when it's done, and he might be willing to make more if people are interested.

Russell
Pay attention to the width of the gaps between slats. Make them significant larger or smaller then the diameter of your main sheet. Otherwise your main sheet may get stuck between the slats.
Good luck and dry feet!
Bert

Hi,

RE: Mainsheet

Never really had a problem with the mainsheet, but peanuts are a nuisance to pick out ... LOL.

BTW, we looked (on the dry) to put the slatting the other way round for better drainage, but
- it was an uncomfortable footing
- we were worried that anything dropped would be washed out, rather than get caught on the slats. Our slightly biggish Honda 6 doesn't take the styrofoam - so we have an open well.

As it is, the decision to make the grating as drawn turned out to be right; drainage is no problem.

Hello Russell

Iroko is an excellent choice of timber, it is almost as durable as teak.

Zimp is correct about the problems associated with snagging the main sheet.
I used to have this problem with my last boat. The gap between the boards was larger than the main sheet but smaller than the stop knot in the end of the sheet. I frequently ended up with the knot in the end of the sheet underneath and between two boards:(

This is not (no pun intended) a problem with the HM grating on Mary Ann. It should not happen with Stephan's design either, provided that the longitudinal boards do not protrude beyond the lateral supports at the forward and aft ends.

Cheers

Dennis

CC19 #100 Mary Ann

Maybe I'll need a plastic bobble with a diameter greater than the gap.