Jobs for this Spring

[ianrmaciver]

Happy New Year to all.
I'm just starting to think about coming out of hibernation , another +10 deg. and I'll risk starting work.
Jobs to do include :-
1. Refitting/sealing the fixed garage top light. This started leaking last Summer , with the mastic coming away from the light. I limped through to the end of the season using Duct Tape.
I'm planning to remove , clean all surfaces and reseal with CT1 a sealant/adhesive I've used before.
Anyone else had the same problem? I noticed that Dennis had done away with the light and used the area for a solar panel.
Alternative ideas welcome.

2. Modifying the sliding hatch cover as per David Peck's detailed instructions.
I'll know more once I've stripped the unit down , but expect to have to replace the seal . Are these available from Honnor Marine , or are they a widely available seal.

I'm off to the London Boat Show this Sunday , mainly to meet up with a few sailing friends , but wonder if anyone's been this year and seen anything interesting to CC19ers.

Hoping for a warm spell,
Ian

[Dennis]

Hello Ian

I certainly know of others who have suffered from a leaking hatch light.

I decided to replace my hatch garage with a "blind" version because I already had the light covered with a solar panel and it was solution which would never require any further attention.
I did consider removing and refitting the polycarbonate (Lexon) glazing and carried out some research as to which sealer to use. I came to the conclusion that Sikaflex 295 UV - Window Sealant and Adhesive is what was required.

Here is a quote from the sales blurb:

[color="Blue"]"Sikaflex 295 UV Marine window sealant and adhesive has been specially formulated for marine applications where resistance to direct sunlight is required.

It has also been designed for bonding polycarbonate or acrylic windows or hatches. "[/color]

However, I decided to eliminate the problem forever and got HM to remove the old garage and fit a new "blind" version. Relatively expensive, but no more leaks, guaranteed.

I sailed for season and a half with duct tape, it worked, but was not very pretty.

I also am waiting for the weather to warm up to start my annual pre-seaon chores. Too cold for varnishing at the moment.

[Runrig]

Can anyone help?
One of my jobs before the season is to fit the boom with the original fittings for main sheet and reefing.
Can anyone tell me the distance from the back end of the boom to the centres of:
The outhaul / mainsheet fitting
The cheek block for the first reef (port side?)
The cheek block for the second reef (starboard?)

When I bought Froach she was fitted with a centre main a la dinghy racing. I am gradually putting her back to some more standard arrangements.
Any help appreciated.
Paul

[Dennis]

Can anyone help?
Can anyone tell me the distance from the back end of the boom to the centres of:
The outhaul / mainsheet fitting
The cheek block for the first reef (port side?)
The cheek block for the second reef (starboard?)

Hello Paul

You are in luck, Mary Ann's spars are conveniently hanging from my garage ceiling.

Distances from the aft end of boom are:

outhaul / mainsheet fitting: 4 inches
cheek block for the first reef (port side?): 13 inches
cheek block for the second reef (starboard?): 21 inches

In the case of the cheek blocks I have given the dimension to the centre of the sheave, not the centre of the backing plate.

You certainly inherited an "interesting" rigging set up when you bought Fraoch. There are lessons to be learned there for owners of new built boats, best not to alter the standard rigging set-up until you have sailed it for a while.

[Runrig]

Dennis
Many thanks.
I can have a go at this at the weekend when it is definitely going to be too cold to varnish.
Cheers
Paul

[Greybeard]

I managed to sneak the spars into the conservatory before Xmas for varnishing - the mast is just a few inches too long though. I wonder if SWMBO would notice if the doors into the lounge were left slightly open

Steve

[Greybeard]

Dispensation granted by the EPO (Enjoyment Prevention Officer) to bring the mast into the conservatory for varnishing
I got the second coat of Epifanes on tonight and it's already looking far too good to use.
If only I'd put the double doors in the end of it, I just may have squeezed in a CC Unfortunately, she was one step ahead of me at the design stage. Still, you cant win 'em all.

Steve

[Dennis]

I have finally started the annual refurbishment of mast/spars.

Because I do this every year things never get too bad. However, one area of the mast which does suffer is where the gaff jaws rub with the mast in the raised position, actually it is two areas, full sail and first reef.

I am thinking of protecting the mast at the full sail position by sheathing with leather.

Has anyone tried this?

How is the leather best attached?

[Greybeard]

I've covered the gaff jaws with a leather sleeve for this season, purely because it looks better than the plastic tube, though to its credit, there were no signs of mast damage. Hopefully that will do the same job. Personally, I'd avoid sleeving the mast as it could invite damp to loiter around it, especially at Kielder

Steve

[Dennis]

Hello Steve

I have the gaff jaws sleeved with leather already. But the mast still takes some punishment.

I am not bothered about dampness, providing that the varnish is intact. The bowsprit has a leather sleeve and the varnish and timber beneath that is immaculate.

On the subject of the bowsprit, I have discovered mine has a hairline crack along the grain of the wood for about 2/3 length. Not a problem though. I have rubbed it down to bare wood and will simply revarnish, making sure that the crack is properly covered. It is the nature of timber I'm afraid!