Antifoul

[Pugwash]

Hi All

What do the non coppercoat users do? I tend to launch Robyn when I use her so she spends far more time on the trailer than in the water so growth isn’t really a problem but she is antifouled so I would like to keep her shipshape.

Anyone else out there do the same, what do you use? Hard or soft? Any thoughts?

Also do I just struggle underneath the trailer and make the best of it or are there any words of wisdom on getting her off the trailer and doing a proper job?

Regards Pugwash

[David Hudson]

Hello peep's

Tokoloshe
is "copper coated". Two years on Ullswater has produced
two different results.

Year one, on a light fouling mooring, produced a clean hull.

Year two,on a mooring with heavy fouling, she needed a
power hose job but looks OK for another year.

Granny's Yacht
is treated with the blue stuff that marks on contact
and is regarded as about right for the job.

She has been moored on the light fouling mooring and
was quite clean.

I have been advised to re-coat every two years.

"Ya pays ya money and ya takes ya choice!"

I'm still not tempted to dry sail.

Regards
David

p.s. My "fundi" tells me that "copper coat" is best applied in
a workshop environment,

[Nick Martin]

Juno is dry sailed and I've only antifouled her once in 5+ yrs .. hard .. unfortunately prev owner hadn't prepared the hull properly sio now beginning to flake off .. I recon that properly applied hard would do a long time...

as regards to getting under the hull etc .. I had a problem with a pin hole in the centreboard casing which required removal of the centreboard to sort .. I jacked the boat up on the trailer by degrees with a small trolly jack .. Then chocked the keel on concrete blocks / timber pads .. sorted a couple of well braced props each side and lowered the trailer .. at about 1/2 metre above the trailer, there was enough clearance to remove the plate easily (ballanced on jack) .. and painting the bottom was really easy then .. after reversal of the process it was easy to touch in the previously supported bits .. I just wish I'd known how poor the origional coats adhesion had been .. I think at some point I'll have to repeat the process and scrape off / repaint .. on the other hand I could just go sailing ...

[Chris Wicks]

I antifoul Kaliope annually in April and she is then afloat until mid October or early Nov. I use a cheap Greek soft anti fouling and it lasts well for a whole season and is easy to wash off limited growth end of season. I get the trailer on ramps then jack up the front and chock it so it is level at the height of the ramps. I then lower / remove the bilge supports from the trailer having lashed her in a central position from grab rails to the trailer. It is all very secure before I get underneath. There is good access to work with roller and rubbing down as necessary. Downside is poor adhesion of original antifoul and with build up of layers big flakes can come off while applying new. But try and remove poorly adhered patches, feather edges of old antifouling and apply a primer. So far this is a worthwhile annual job and takes 2 days quickly followed by relaunching...

Also I still use a hard antifoul (for drive legs) on Honda 5hp drive leg and prop and leave the engine immersed all season. Strip down and clean the lower leg and it shows no sign of deterioration after 6 full seasons.

[zimp]

We use udder cream for antifouling, yes the stuff you can buy at farmer suppliers. It is easy to apply, environment friendly cheap and effective.